Food in Rome: A Practical Guide
It's easy to get Rome wrong. I learned that the hard way on my first morning, when I tried to order a cappuccino at a tiny cafe on Via dei Coronari, only to be gently corrected by the barista: "Cappuccino is for breakfast, signora. For you, a caffè." I'd read the guidebooks, but nothing prepares you for the unspoken rules of Roman coffee culture. By lunch, I'd already ordered a cacio e pepe at a hole-in-the-wall near Campo de' Fiori, and the chef's wife, who'd been watching me struggle with the menu, slid a plate of fried artichokes onto my table with a wink. "For the road," she said, and I realized Rome isn't just about eating—it's about being welcomed into a rhythm that's been going on for centuries. My favorite meal so far has been at Roscioli Salumeria, a legendary spot near the Pantheon. I went at 1:30 p.m. on a Tuesday, and the line was already snaking out the door, but it was worth the wait. I ordered the carbonara—just p...